Wednesday 22 February 2012

My UKBC prep and practise area

I haven't really blogged much about my UKBC prep. There was (and is) definitely a little trepidation about doing so, but ultimately I've decided to stick with what seems to work for me... being completely open about what I'm doing, the mistakes, the successes, and recording anything that might help me or others become a better barista.  Hopefully my blogging about it won't influence the views of any judges! I'm confident that they are professional enough not to take prep into account, and will just judge me on my performance on the day.

I have around 3 weeks before I compete at the Glasgow heats of the UK Barista Championships. In an ideal world my routine would have been slick by now. I have certainly done my best to be as prepared as possible... under the circumstances (more on those circumstances later!).  I have sought advice from previous competitors, had a fantastic workshop with Jon Skinner, read the rules many times, discussed some of the finer points with forum members, travelled from Scotland to London to attended an SCAE-UK event focusing on the San Remo and Mahlkoenig equipment, and have been working with a roaster since 15 Oct 2011 on the espresso we will be presenting in the competition. Paul and Eloise Travis from Hands On Coffee have been amazing. Their depth of knowledge is quite astounding for a micro-roastery. It has been a wonderful experience to bounce ideas off each other, and talk to someone who clearly has the same passion and desire to do things well as I do. I'm so honoured that they agreed to let me represent their products, and I'm determined to do my best to do justice to their efforts.
Back In The Day! Late 2010.

I consider myself a working professional barista. I have worked at a handful of places in and around Scotland, and now own my own cafe business, which is currently in its mid-startup stages. If you have ever taken the huge risk of making a complete change of career, selling your home, and moving to a remote part of a different country to set up a new life for yourself and your family, you'll know exactly how important it is that you get it right, and do it professionally.

However, there are logistical issues that go along with the mammoth life change we've undertaken. One of the main challenges, as someone trying to balance setting up a business with building up hands-on machine-time, has been a lack of regular access to a commercial espresso machine... a fairly basic need in this competition!  To overcome this I've supplemented my time on commercial machines with time on a single group domestic Gaggia Classic (1).  It has worked to a degree, but there are severe limitations as a competitor.

Finally though, today I have been able to install my own commercial machine (which has been in storage for months) in my new home. It's a 2 group Faema with an 11 litre boiler and a Thermal Balancing System that allows each group head temperature to be controllable. It will stay here until the cafe opens, which should be just after the UKBC finals. I have paired its arrival with a new set of authentic burrs for my Mazzers - gotta cherish the small things ;)

So having spent 4-5 months refining my knowledge of my competition espresso, and finally having the opportunity to make shots using the commercial equipment, I now find myself having to make some changes to my UKBC script. The espresso is almost the same as it was on the small domestic machine, but even after only a handful of properly dialed in shots it is clear that there are glaring differences too.  Awesome differences!! I loved the espresso on the Gaggia Classic. I am now almost head over heals with the effect of the commercial machine's temperature stability. The complexity has been raised... the taste is more clean, clear... the colour is richer, redder and more consistent throughout the pull, and the crema is thicker, despite already being reassuringly persistent.

I'm happy. But it also makes me wonder what will happen on competition day when the beans are transferred to the San Remo machine. I like the Verona a lot. I would certainly have one in my own business.  Perhaps the espresso will not change when run through the Verona, but there are sure to be difference I think. Different basket shape, for a start, which is something that was highlighted by John Gordon in his workshop.  (It would be great if competitors could use their own baskets. VST has to be the way forward in my view.)  I guess the key thing I need to do is spend a good portion of my practise time on competition day pulling shots with various parameters, to dial in the espresso to how I know it should taste. If that means a different dose weight, brew ratio, extraction time etc, then I just hope I have time to find the sweet spot alongside all the other setup there is to do.



Notes
(1) This is where I expect professional baristas who have never been a home barista to snort derisively.  But the fact is, many of the best baristas I have ever come across hail from the home barista arena. There is a level of passion and obsession that goes with being a home barista which is actually quite rare to find in those who have only ever made coffee as a job.  If you don't believe me, pay a visit to www.coffeegeek.com, www.coffeeforums.co.uk or www.home-barista.com. You'll find contributions from people like David Schomer and James Hoffman, as well as names that might be less well known to some but have made enormous contributions to the world of coffee, like Andy Schecter and Jim Schulman.



9 comments:

  1. Really good to hear the comparisons between domestic machines and commercial machines and how they impact taste. How much of the difference do you think is attributable to thermal stability, the "humped" HX temperature profile and the commercial grade components.

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    1. My understanding of HX and components isn't going to stun anyone, but I think, from the short time I've used this new commercial machine, that the temperature deviation from the mean is smaller than my domestic machine (which starts at 91C, rises to 94 then falls to 87C... I surf to cut off the initial peak). The hump is there on the commercial machine too, but I believe it is perhaps flatter, easier to read, manage, and surf, and doesn't tail off to coolness, due to the larger boiler. The group heads are beefy and will clearly retain heat better, and actually it's worth comparing with a low grade commercial machine I've used in the past, which (unlike the Faema) didn't exceed the domestic machine in terms of shot quality. This suggests to me that the components in the Faema have better heat retention.
      But I also wonder whether pressure is a factor. I have no way to know whether the pump pressure in the domestic machine is constant, whether there is a slow ramp up, stutters caused by its vibratory nature (rather than rotary) etc. The additional smoothness attained with the commercial machine's espresso intuitively suggests to me pressure consistency throughout the shot.
      Anyway, just thoughts :) Appreciate your question, as it has made me even more keen to find the facts behind these difference in shot quality.
      What are your thoughts?

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    2. Interesting. When I moved from my domestic Gaggia machine to a HX machine I noticed similar differences. At the time I was unsure of where to attribute the differences I was tasting but I think it is a combination of better dispersion of the brew water across the puck, better temperature stability through the shot and the HX humped temperature profile (although I think this makes more of a difference with more acidic coffees). The degree of hump that a HX has tends to depend upon the cooling flush and rebound times and of course the machine. With the San Remo (assuming it is a TCS model which is dual boiler) I would expect a L-slant temperature profile rather than a hump.

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    3. The competition machine is indeed a TCS, with a large dedicated steam boiler and two individual 300ml group boilers. I spent some time speaking to the San Remo rep recently, looking inside the machine, and I believe all the boilers are all HX systems, with a PID controller linked to the brew boilers too. I therefore expect the temperature profile will be flatter/constant than my Faema. The rep told me there is not even any need to flush, from a temperature viewpoint, although TBH I still need to be convinced of that. Anyway, I expect this will affect extraction and taste on competition day, so it's once again something that may require last minute adjustments to the script, as different aromas and qualities may present themselves. It's a difficult thing to prepare for, but I guess the ability to respond to immediate circumstances is a valid skill in itself.
      I'd love to learn more about HX profiles. I've been re-reading this article http://www.home-barista.com/hx-love.html Do please let me know if you have any suggestions :)

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    4. The article you linked to is probably the best - it is really quite good. I believe the HX on the TCS machines is designed to pre-heat the brew water before it enters the brew boiler so that it does not cool the water already within the boiler during the shot (as on the Gaggia) - this is the same technique used by La Marzocco and Synesso machines. This means for all intensive purposes it will behave like a double boiler machine but be considerably more temperature stable within the shot. The temperature profile should be extremely flat probably resembling the slanted L in the HX Love article. You can achieve a similar temperature profile on an HX design machine by altering the cooling flush and rebound times.

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    5. Thanks James. Off to learn more about L Slants and rebound times.

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  2. No problem, that San Remo looks like a great machine. Best of luck at UKBC!

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  3. BTW I've been data-logging my Faema's hump. Interestng results... big hump, big drop in temp. Will be blogging results of further research soon. Cheers.

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